How to Create a Smokey Eye Look for Hooded Eyes​

If you have hooded eyes, creating a smokey eye can feel frustrating when the shadow disappears into the fold.

In this smokey eye for hooded eyes tutorial, I walk you through exactly how to avoid common mistakes and achieve a stunning look that stays visible and dramatic.

Tools and materials: 

• Brow pencil
• Spoolie brush
• Black shadow stick eyeshadow pencil
• Blending brush
• Black powder eyeshadow
• Flat brush
• Light brown transition eyeshadow
• Definer brush
• Highlighting eyeshadow shade
• Eyelash curler
• Mascara
• False lashes
• Lip plumper

1. Understanding the challenge of hooded eyes

With hooded eyes, much of the lid space can be hidden under extra skin, known as the hood. This is why a black smokey eye can sometimes end up looking more like eyeliner when the lid is relaxed. 

The key to solving this is maximizing the space underneath the brow by creating a new crease higher than the natural one.

2. Preparing and filling in the brows

First, I brush my brow hairs upward to create as much space as possible under the brows. 

I start with my eyebrows using the Precisely My Brow pencil from Benefit in the shade 4.5. Because it has a micro tip, it creates natural, hairlike strokes and is very pigmented.

I only fill in sparse areas to keep everything light and fluffy, avoiding heavy brows that can weigh down the lids. I finish by brushing through once more with a spoolie to evenly distribute the product.

3. Applying the black base to the eyes

Next, I use the black shadow stick eyeshadow pencil from Jason Vu. I begin by tight-lining the waterline.

Then I scribble the pencil all over the lid. It doesn’t have to be perfect. I simply saturate the lid and stop at the crease to show how the hood can cover the shadow. 

When I relax my lid, it instantly looks like eyeliner because the skin folds over it.

4. Creating a new crease for a visible smokey eye

Looking straight into the mirror, I mark a point just above where the hood covers the shadow. When my eyes are open, I should still be able to see this point. 

Then I lift my brow and connect that point to both the inner and outer corners. 

I fill in this entire area with the same black pencil. This technique instantly doubles the visible lid space.

5. Softening and setting the black shadow

Using my finger, I soften the edges of the black pencil, though a brush works just as well. This helps the shadow blend into the shades that will follow. 

From the Boring Palette, my collaboration with Ofra Cosmetics, I apply black powder eyeshadow over the lid to set the base.

Layering a shadow stick with a powder intensifies the look, which is exactly what a black smokey eye needs. 

I also smudge the same black eyeshadow along the lower lash line using a flat brush.

6. Blending with transition shade

Now I take the shade Buff, a lighter brown, and smoke out the edges so the black flows seamlessly into my skin tone.

This becomes my transition shade, and I layer it as much as I like. 

Using a definer brush, I also soften the lower lash line with the same brown eyeshadow for balance.

7. Highlighting the brows and inner corners

Next, I use the shade Halo to highlight both the brow bones and the inner corners of my eyes. This step brightens the overall look and adds contrast to the dark smokey shades.

8. Curling lashes and applying mascara

To finish the eyes, I curl my lashes with Sally Hansen curlers. 

For mascara, I use Swede Cloud Mascara.

I especially love it for my lower lashes because the wand is very thin, which helps prevent smudging. I apply a generous coat to both the top and bottom lashes.

9. Adding lashes for extra drama

For false lashes, I use Lily Lashes in Game Changer. These lashes are fluffy, they wing out, and they don’t block the lid space, allowing the smokey eye to remain visible. They are also self-adhesive, so there is no need for glue.

10. Finishing with lip color

To complete the look, I pair the eyes with the Billion Dollar Beauty Lip Plumper in Gumball. Because it is a lip plumper, you can feel the tingling sensation almost immediately after application.